1995 Clos Mogador

A rich, inky black wine, with dark flavors of bitter chocolate, nutmeg, plum, prune and coffee. It fills the palate, yet the muscular tannins are well integrated. The finish is a bit hot but long and spicy. A big wine that needs time to show its best. Best after 2002.

- T.M.

Proprietor Rene Barbier is a pioneer in the potentially super-star Tarrigona region of Priorato. The 1995 exhibits sweeter fruit and aggressive oak, but better integration of the wood than its older sibling. Full-bodied, with a blackberry, raspberry, peppery component to its aromas, along with the tell-tale pain grille notes from new oak, an unctuous texture, and a whoppingly long, intense finish, it is almost too intense to drink at present. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2020.

- Robert M. Parker, Jr. (04/1998)