Bright medium ruby. Youthfully medicinal aromas and flavors of black fruits, licorice and bitter chocolate. Densely packed and fine-grained, conveying terrific purity of fruit framed by harmonious acidity. Quite full but less thick and extractive than the '13, and a bit less port-like than that big boy. Still, this brooding, backward, slightly unsettled wine is difficult to taste today. With its element of reserve and powerful finish, it calls for extended aging. It may well eventually merit an even higher rating. (14.9% alcohol; 75% new oak)
- Stephen Tanzer
