Quince preserves and marzipan are laced with mint and honeysuckle on the effusive nose and the luscious, seductively silken palate of this ultra-buoyant and impeccably balanced “gold capsule” Auslese. As with quite a few of the Prüm 2017s, there is a welcome influx of brightly juicy fresh citrus – here suggesting both white and pink grapefruit – that renders the finish, for all of its richness, vibrant and downright refreshing. What’s more, there is a transparency to smoky, stony and saline nuances such as one seldom witnesses in a Riesling from fruit this ripe. And there isn’t one bit of superficial sweetness. (There is no Lange Goldkapsel Graacher Himmelreich Auslese this vintage – perhaps one reason why this Goldkapsel bottling is so sensational – but there is material that will eventually be released as Beerenauslese, or perhaps even as TBA.)
- David Schildknecht (09/2018)
