At the top of the remarkable Zuccardi lineup is the 2021 Finca Piedra Infinita Gravascal, sourced from a single 0.73-hectare parcel dominated by gravel, granite rocks and calcareous stones with 50 centimeters of topsoil. It fermented entirely with whole clusters in unlined concrete tanks and matured for 12 months. The bouquet is both deeper and more lifted than that of its other Piedra Infinita counterparts, offering a wildly herbal, floral, nimble and endlessly complex nose. The palate combines a weightless buoyancy and deft concentration with a pronounced yet restrained mineral-laden core, culminating in a slow-moving, balanced and symmetrical finish with dramatic length, ultra-refined tannins and a striking combination of vertical lift and horizontal dimensionality. This wine brought to mind the transparency pages in the anatomy section of an encyclopedia set, each revealing distinct layers of one unified system layered on top of the other; I found the Supercal bottling akin to the skeletal system of Piedra Infinita, and the Gravascal is its beating heart. I cannot wait to follow this wine in the cellar, and I suspect it has a solid two decades of development ahead.
- Matthew Luczy (05/2025)
