2022 Vogelsang Riesling Kabinett

Markus Molitor's Saar Domäne Serrig 2022 Kabinett Vogelsang is remarkably pure, saline and intense on the nose, intermingling lush pineapple and tropical stone fruit aromas with notes of crystalline rocks, lemon oil and sea salt. It is certainly much more reductive than wines not coming from the Mosel and not being bottled with residual sugar. 2022 was an extremely warm and dry vintage, so Molitor's team in Serrig had to reduce yields dramatically in order to rescue the predominantly young vines. However, the nose doesn't show any hints of stress. This is a pure, fresh and savory as well as intense and slightly flinty-flavored Riesling from weathered slate, and it shows an iron-like twist with candied lemon notes and brown sugar on the nose. Lush yet crystalline and refined, this is an intense and very elegant yet weightless Kabinett whose richness is uplifted by a saline acidity and gorgeous finesse. This is a featherlight yet perfectly ripe, quite complex, immediately mouthwatering and aromatic Kabinett with sweet pineapple aromas, fine grip and, initially, the sharpness of a slate plate that becomes rounder with aeration. The Kabinett Prädikat is not interpreted as particularly light in terms of bright and airy Riesling here but instead a serious vin de terroir in the typical Saar style: light, crystalline, precise and saline but also hedonistic without being all too rich. This is a highly stimulating 2022 Kabinett with full ripeness, good concentration and a long, intense and aromatic finish with fine grip and mouthwatering salinity. It's a great, filigreed yet intense Kabinett in the style of a Kabinett that used to be, in the Rheingau of the early 20th century, the best wine of the vintage. 9.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in July 2025. 

- Stephan Reinhardt (08/2025)